Richard Gordon Smith (1858-1918) was an English animal hunter who earlier had spent time in France, Canada, and Norway. He had a falling out from his wife of eighteen years and, as divorce at the time was neither desirable nor respectable, he left to travel full-time, first-class. Throughout his travels he kept a series of eight large leather-bound diaries emblazoned with exotic illustrations and filled with momentoes from all over the world. After Ceylon and Burma, he arrived in Nagasaki harbor on Christmas Eve 1897. He left Japan in February 1900, heading back to England via New Guinea and Fiji, but he came down with a fever and abandoned the trip, returning to Japan instead. Gordon Smith did go back to England briefly in 1903, returning to Japan that year via Singapore and China. Later he left from Kobe, again to England via Ceylon, in early 1905. He was back in Kyoto by the year's end. Transcribing folktales and myths ever more in his diaries, he also collected some mammals for the British Museum. In 1908 his Ancient Tales and Folklore of Japan was published, but was not successful. His last diary entry was in September 1915, his health undermined by beriberi and malaria. |
Travels in
the Land of the Gods (edited from the previously unpublished
diaries which he had kept):
[In Tokyo, Jan.
3, 1898] I next went to the Maple Club, a place in itself which
defies description. The place is a club but such is its beauty that
visitors are allowed the privilege of going over it by taking off their
boots and paying ten cents. the house is very large for a Japanese
one but no doubt there are many members. All the rooms are for tea
or dinners or other entertainments of Japanese order... There is
nothing to see and yet there is everything to see. So clean and so
absolutely artistic in every detail that you are left in wonder and to
wonder to yourself, are you the civilized
Briton, really
civilized at all? What is your house or your club in comparison to
this? The whole looks as if it ought to go under a glass case...
Of ornaments there are hardly any, and those there are, are as simple as
they are artistic. Either a dwarfed cherry or plum tree, two feet
high, with a wild aesthetic appearance, or a single twig of the same put
into a vase and placed by itself. How much better this than what
we call a bouquet -- I shall always laugh when I see a bouquet now. (pg. 34) Saturday, December 31st [1898,
Tokyo]. ...At breakfast I got an invitation to dine at our
Legation from Sir Ernest Satow. I thought it so particularly kind
that I went to thank him in person and he entertained me for some time
about things in Japan, especially the pruned trees [bonsai], which
strike me so curious... (pg. 25, which
also has three hand-colored drawings: a dwarfed potted white plum, a pine,
and a peach tree. Five insects have been illustrated around these
trees) Sunday January 24th [1904,
Kobe]. Very cold again. Fukojuso [Adonis amurensis]
bloomed today. This is a particularly weird yellow flower which is
planted in every shochikubai [a planted container] kept in all households
around the New Year, comprising always an old pine tree, small bamboo,
a plum tree and a plant with red leaves called naten [the sacred bamboo,
Nandina domestica]. Each of these plants are emblematic of what
may be called the very first signs of nature coming to life again. (pg. 114, with color illustration
from Gordon Smith's diary)
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Thursday September 20th [1906,
Kobe]. ...I started off to see, for the first time, the great
pine of Karasaki or Karasake-mo-Matsu...
The tree of Japan is quite an impressive one, in fact, the most impressive pine tree I have ever seen. But, like Niagra Falls, it is a thing for study because, at first, it is difficult to imagine it being one tree owing to the vast number of [wooden] supports -- 380. Its height is nothing; here are the particulars: height 72 feet; circumference of trunk 37 feet; widest extension of branches, east to west, 240 feet, and from north to south, 288 feet. It is the 'father' of all Japan's dwarf mushroom-shaped trees [sic]. Botanically Pinus thunbergii, it dates from the reign of Emperor Jomei (629-41), in which period Ushinaro Koto-no-natachi planted it in the courtyard of his residence at Karasaki, and called it Nokiba-Mo-Matsu (the pine tree growing by the eaves of the house), so small was it when first planted... ...but curious to relate, the pine needles, instead of growing in pairs as before [it had been legendarily rejuvenated many years ago], grew mostly singly, and to this day only one in every four grows as a pair of needles. Today, great attention is paid to the tree: the central stem is roofed over and holes in its branches are carefully stopped with plaster. One man is employed exclusively to look after it and is in daily attendance. (pp. 206-207, with two wide angle colored photos showing front and back of tree) 1 |
1 Gordon Smith,
Richard Travels in the Land of the Gods (1898-1907), The Japanese
Diaries of (New York: Prentice Hall Press, 1986. Profuse illustrations
and photographs of mostly unposed subjects. Edited by Victoria Manthorpe.) |